Review: Dinastia Latina
I have a craving for Brij Mohan about once a week. I actually cash in on that craving about once every other month. The last time I had a craving, on my way up to Ikea on a Saturday evening (my life is glamorous), I decided what I really wanted to do was try the little Mexican restaurant that I’d heard good things about but had never tried.
Dinastia Latina is a teeny-tiny, hole-in-the-wall Mexican restaurant. If you’re anti-hole-in-the-wall, get over it, because there are plenty of places with great food that don’t have the polish of some other restaurants. This is one of the places.
The owner, Eneida Coria, serves, cooks, and chats up all of the patrons. When I walked in, she said, “I don’t recognize you. How did you hear about us?” She has been open for just a few months, and I have a feeling she remembers every face that walks in, and many of them walk in again and again. She proudly told the tables near me that Cincinnati Magazine had just been in to write about her tortas, which was the dish that I had heard about too (from @CincyHound, who used to have a blog but now is all Twitter). After munching on some chips and salsa (the chips aren’t house-made, but the salsas– both hot and mild– are very good. I loved the hot, which just has a kick of heat), I decided on a torts. I asked the other woman working there which one was her favorite, and she said to try the chicken Milanesa, which is a fried, pounded-thin chicken breast with mayonnaise, beans, lettuce, avocado, jalapeño and tomato– a variety of very subtle flavors served on a slightly crusty but still soft Mexican bread called a bollilo. Though the ingredients are simple, the results are a complex blend of textures and flavors. Eat the whole thing or share with a friend, because the sandwich doesn’t keep (I tried to only eat half and take the rest home– a misstep). The best part? The whole deal is $6.
I can’t wait to go back and try other dishes, but it will be difficult for me to not just try a different kind of torta.