Meeting a friend at Boca for cocktails, I was struck by the balance of old and new in the space.
Old: Booth #75, an homage to the best seat in the Maisonette house
New: open, sparkling kitchen
Old: a cocktail list with a drink, the Sparkling ’64, named for the year the Maisonette received its first 5-star award from the Mobil Travel Guide, and a play off of the French 75.
New: waiters in jeans and a young, female vintner pouring samples of wine for guests.
Another tip of the hat to “old” are pommes souffles, which my date suggested I try. Insisted I try. Pommes souffles are a very traditional French preparation: thinly sliced potatoes, twice-fried, so they magically puff up. They’re light as air and incredibly delicious, and were never actually on the menu at the Maisonette, but everyone who was anyone knew to order them. My friend’s parents ordered them for her as a little girl, when they’d take her there for dinner. These are accompanied by a beautiful Béarnaise.
Everyone tells me that they are waiting to go to Boca to celebrate a special occasion. Don’t. Go and grab a drink at the beautiful bar, order a small plate, and admire the nearly seamless blending of old and new.